Yukon During a Pandemic

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I finally did it. I got on an airplane during a pandemic. In fact, I got on four! Let me start by acknowledging how privileged I am to have been able to do that.

I decided that my first trip in the COVID era would be to my favourite part of Canada - Yukon. It was the perfect destination - it's wild, sparsely populated with a high vaccination rate, and reachable with a non-stop flight from Vancouver, where I could visit wonderful friends I hadn't seen in years.

My trip started from my home in Belleville, Ontario. The first phase was getting to Toronto's Pearson International Airport, about two hours west of Belleville. My flight departed at 10am, so I left home around 5:15am to give myself lots of time. Traffic wasn't an issue on Highway 401 and parking at the Park 'N Fly self-park lot was seamless. The shuttle bus waited near my car and took me straight to Pearson's Terminal 3.

I had one large duffle bag to check, a heavy carry-on bag with camera gear, and a laptop bag (see my luggage tips), so I picked up a free luggage cart and dropped off my checked bag. I had read horror stories of people waiting hours to drop off their luggage, but I had no issues. There was an open machine to print my luggage tag and no line-up to drop it off.

My flight to Vancouver was uneventful. My flight from Vancouver to Whitehorse was with Air North and I had forgotten how great they are. Their prices were low but they still included two checked bags (I only needed one) and good food. On my flight, we got a ham sandwich (made with actual ham!) and a warmed chocolate chip cookie. Cookies are always a great way to start any trip.

Speaking of food, I was able to bring lots in my checked bag because I didn't need to leave space for camping gear. I brought Clif Bars, trail mix, dried apricots, and almonds. Rather than camping, I stayed at AirBnb locations in Whitehorse and Vancouver. It was a new experience but I liked it. There was never any worry about where to get potable water, how to charge camera batteries, or what to do when it was raining. That being said, I can't wait to go camping on my next road trip.

Birding was the main purpose of my trip. I worked toward my goal of observing 100 bird species in every Canadian province and territory (see how I did with my birding goals in 2019). Before the trip, I had 79 species in Yukon. I hoped to reach 100, but it was not to be. I saw zero gulls and zero shorebirds during the whole week! Oh well. I got my Yukon list to 90 and my next trip (en route to Inuvik!) is already booked. It will be earlier in the fall and shorebirds will hopefully be easier to find.

I knew it would be difficult to find birds on day one. I picked up my rental car and checked in to my AirBnb. The check-in process was significantly quicker and easier than a hotel - an open door with the key on the table! I arrived late in the afternoon without much daylight left so I headed northwest on the Alaska Highway. It was a beautiful drive. There was so much bright yellow foliage!

Drury’s Farm Pond, about 37 km northwest of Whitehorse on the Alaska Highway

However, when I arrived at Drury's Farm Pond, there were very few birds. The spot had potential, but late September was just a tad too late for it to be packed with ducks and shorebirds.

I had only four days in Yukon, so I really filled them with birding. I got up before sunrise and birded each day until sunset. I covered as much ground as I could with a rental car that only included 1400 free kilometres. (I’m frugal!)

DAY 1 - SOUTHEAST TO TESLIN

Deadman Creek, about 28 km north of Teslin, Yukon

On my way back to Whitehorse from Teslin, I stopped at Judas Creek Marina on Marsh Lake. There were a few birds such as my first American Tree Sparrows in the Yukon, but I had no idea this bird was right above me on a pole:

Bald Eagle at Judas Creek Marina - Marsh Lake, Yukon

I only saw it because a man in a work truck stopped to ask me what I was taking pictures of. I told him about the tree sparrows and he asked if I was interested in what was directly above my head. I hadn’t even noticed it!

DAY 2 - NORTHWEST TO HAINES JUNCTION AND KLUANE NATIONAL PARK

My trip was in September, so I wasn’t expecting snow. However, that’s what I got and I was glad it was there during my drive to Kluane National Park. There was a light dusting of white on everything, and it made the already beautiful scenery even more incredible.

I found my first American Pipits on the shore of Kathleen Lake and spent some time just taking in the view.

American Pipit on the shore of Kathleen Lake in Kluane National Park, Yukon

Kathleen Lake, Kluane National Park, Yukon

DAY 3 - SOUTH TO CARCROSS

It was particularly dreary on day three, with rain all day alternating between a light drizzle and a heavy downpour. I went south of Carcross toward the British Columbia border and enjoyed the extremely low traffic volume.

Bove Island Lookout, about 11 km south of Carcross, Yukon

DAY 4 - NEAR WHITEHORSE

On day four, my flight left in the afternoon so I stayed close to the city. I went back to the Whitehorse sewage lagoons, where I could only see birds without trespassing by using my telescope through a small gap in the fence. I stumbled upon two mule deer on my way back to town.

Mule Deer near Whitehorse, Yukon

SUMMARY

All in all, it was a great trip. I got on an airplane for the first time in 20 months, got to spend time with awesome people, and added eleven bird species to my Yukon list (see below). Up next, I’ll talk about how I saved money on this trip.

Bird species added to Yukon list

  • Snow Goose

  • Canvasback

  • Surf Scoter

  • Ruddy Duck

  • Ruffed Grouse

  • Northern Harrier

  • Sharp-shinned Hawk

  • Red-tailed Hawk

  • Peregrine Falcon

  • American Pipit

  • American Tree Sparrow